Getting There
You can reach Howth using the DART, a fast train service, from Dublin's city center. Return ticket costs €3.60 from Connolly station and is valid one day.
There are trains every 15 minutes. Take the train north to Howth. You will arrive near the Harbour. The train takes between 25 and 30 minutes from Connelly Station.
Notice: There is one train going to Howth, and the other going to Malahide. They both go in the same direction, but do not halt at the same stations. If it's not written "Howth", it's not going there.
Alternatively, you can take a bus from Connolly, the 31 bus will take you up to Howth's Harbour and the 31B up to Howth's Summit. Tickets can be bought in the bus (prepare your change).
According to the timetable there is one bus every half-hour or so.
The bus needs to travel through heavy traffic and across a tram line to get to the stop opposite Connolly station and so the time can vary when it arrives, it is best to be at the Connolly bus stop at the time the bus is due to leave and be vigilant as many busses crowd the stop and some may not stop -- be assertive when hailing the bus.
The 31 and 31B both start from the same location; Eden Quay. It is just off O'Connell Street. With your back to the O'Connell Statue and facing O'Connell Bridge turn left and follow the river, you should be on the side of the road away from the river. Continue past the T-junction, where you should see the Abbey theatre. The bus stop is the second before the railway bridge.
Exploring
Think walking shoes, as you'll mostly be walking. There is only one main (and circular) road on the peninsula, that 31/31B bus takes.
What To See
The old town and the harbour are very traditional. There are interesting ruins higher in the hills, and an old tomb west of the harbour.
The volunteer-run National Transport Museum is located on Howth, in the grounds of Howth Demense, although its opening hours are limited, particularly off-season when it is mainly open at weekends. Approximately 100 items of Irish transport and vehicular history are on display, including some examples of the trams which formerly ran on the Hill of Howth.
The Howth Quarry on the top of Howth Head. There are great views of Dublin bay and it is popular with walkers. Watch for procreating couples in cars though!
What To Do
There is a walking trail starting east of the town that follows the cliffs all over to the southern part of the peninsula. Take the leftmost road from the harbour. The cliff trail is indicated to the left a bit further. The view is breathtaking and it's really worth the walk.
Along the way, you'll come across Dublin's most visible lighthouse. The southern part gives a great view of Dublin's bay and the city itself. The whole tour takes between 3 and 4 hours.
If you took bus 31B to Howth's Summit, reach the lighthouse from there (15 minutes walk), and do half the track -- towards the north or the south.
It is also possible to go towards the center of the peninsula and walk to the three hills that dominate Dublin's view over the ocean. There is a golf course between two of the hills. The view is also very nice.
Where To Eat
Aqua. Expensive but it is my favourite restaurant.
Ella. Very chic, has early bird menu.
Cibo Cafe, Main Street, 839 6344. Gourment pizzas and cocktails. Very "Sex and the City, sociable, no obligation to eat.
Baily Hotel. Does carvery lunch.traditional food, roasts etc.all are reasonably priced.
Where To Drink Drink
Too many places to mention.
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